On August 4, Tim and I drove west into British Columbia. The weather cleared once we got past the Continental Divide. We lodged in Sorrento, overlooking Shuswap Lake — as picturesque as it sounds. Next morning we stopped in Kamloops, a very western-looking town amid sage-covered hills. When we turned north on Canada 5, we passed along a wide, cultivated valley. Presently the country rose. We found ourselves among evergreens and rushing streams again. On a hot, sunny afternoon, we took a room at Valemont, then turned east to reconnoiter the trailhead below Mount Robson.

Our first sight of the mountain blew us away. With two vertical miles of relief, Robson is the highest of the Canadian Rockies. It stands alone over the Fraser Valley, northwest of Jasper, at the extremity of the range. Further northwest, there are no more high peaks. The Rockies split into several lower ranges, each with its own geology and history.

Next morning we donned our packs and started hiking up the Valley of a Thousand Falls. I posed Tim at a stream crossing with Robson’s summit looming ethereally behind him.

With summer thaw at its climax, all the streams were in spate.

And all the falls were roaring.

We never got our feet wet. The trail was superbly graded, and Canadian forestry personnel had built elaborate wilderness bridges.

After a night in the lower valley, with our packs slung over a high pole to keep them (and us) safe from bears, we hiked past the northwest shoulder of Mount Robson (above) on another hot, sunny morning.

As we rounded the turn of the valley, this view opened ahead. Our trail followed Robson River east toward Berg Lake, below the north face of the mountain.

By day’s end we had found a tenting spot at the far end of a long, crowded campground in the woods above Berg Lake. I surprised Tim by snapping the unposed photo above. We spent three nights there. The place was overrun with beautiful boys from all over the world. I met two tousled potheads from Great Britain, and I shared a joint with a blond, washboarded southern kid who wore only sandals, a pair of skintight cutoffs, and an enormous Bowie knife. It seemed wiser not to make a pass at him.

Toward sunset, a short walk downhill from our camp, I shot a view of Robson’s summit from the gravel flat that stretched out to Berg Lake.

It seemed but a short while before dawn at this high latitude. I aimed the camera at Robson again as we set out for a dayhike. We planned to climb until we reached a three-quarter circumambulation of the mountain.

This glacier above debouched into the shallow, silty lake northeast of the Robson massif.

Glacial scouring had polished the fine foreground sandstone so that its layers looked like banding in petrified wood. The skick surface in the background is ice, darkened by its heavy load of rock flour.

We climbed a dusty, crooked trail over the moraine and further back into the valley. Eventually we got onto grassy slopes at the left of the photo above. From there we had an incredible view of the glacial bowl on the east side of the Robson massif. Alas, that negative was not salvageable.

Passing showers cooled the evening after our long day-hike.

On the next day we rested. The weather was hot and sunny again. Flies were bothersome around the campsite, but the glacier exhaled cool air onto the lake, and we spent much of the day at the shore.

Shaded by our dining fly, we heard helicopters in the distance. Through our little Minolta binoculars, bought expressly for this trip, we watched a mountain rescue. Eventually, late in the afternoon, one of the helicopters swooped out from the high glacier and dropped onto the gravel flat with a stretcher slung some fifty feet below. The rescue had begun when pair of summiteers had failed to return. They had fallen into a crevasse. One eventually climbed out and reached his tent high on the glacier; the other was still in the crevasse when rescuers arrived.

Day five of our pack trip dawned clear and warm. This was the view as we started down the valley from our Berg Lake camp.

Nearing the Fraser Valley, I took this last look back at Mount Robson. Tomorrow I will post the third and final installment of the Canadian jounrney, along the Icefields Parkway.